About

MBIQModels

Bio: I am based in a quiet corner of the UK and worked for 20+ years in the aerospace industry in the research and development fields, both as a design engineer and project manager. However, several years ago I reluctantly had to take medical retirement and my glittering career came to a shuddering halt. As a result of the retirement I suddenly found myself with more spare time than I was used to, combined with a limited physical ability to fill it. One of the things that now fills that time is model making. The activity isn't new to me though; I've been making models on and off since I was about 8 years old with varying degrees of fidelity, though hopefully the general trend is up. However, I now have the time and inclination to indulge myself fully. This site was set-up as a means of making pictures of my models and build threads available to friends who were interested in them rather than boring everyone to death on Facebook and elsewhere. If anyone else enjoys them then all the better.

View complete profile

 

5 thoughts on “About”

  1. You have really been inspiring me. I have now decided to buy a Hasegawa Sopwith Camel F1 kit 1:8 scale and done a lot of the fuselage. Your work has been the basic plan for the mods I am doing. I have found some additional information, so gone in a slightly different direction to you on a couple of pointers like I decided to use a fine twisted wire for the bracing, and completely rebuilt a lot of the controls (Tampier, filter, throttle, switches, etc), I did some mods to the guns, like the springs and added a spacer for the instruments. I’ve used a lot of micro nuts n bolts and cut down chainplates to mount the turnbuckles to. But principally it’s following your lead. I am not as good as you and don’t get the finish, esp your second build.

    I am also thinking of making the spoke wheels, but I am not sure I am good enough. I did get some actual blue prints (bits of) and worked out how I would build them, but a bit uncertain, at least the kit ones will always work.

    Keep up the great work.
    Jon

    Liked by 1 person

    1. The thing that I would really have liked to add was the lightening cut-outs in the wooden structure (cf: The Shuttleworth Collection’s Camel pictures), but that would’ve required the use of a Dremel or something similar which I can’t use due to noise.

      The wheels are OK to make. The most important part is marking and drilling the holes accurately. Fitting the spokes does involve a lot of frustration, but once the holes are there it just takes time an patience. A jig to hold everything during assembly is a must though.

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Hello, thanks for getting back.
        Yes, I thought the same, and all that furniture too. I also thought the same about the space behind it and below the guns.

        Re the wheels, I have worked out what I want to do and almost there in how to do the exaction, but somewhat nervous. As I have been sent bits of the blue prints I have managed to work out the shapes and configuration, so was going to cement a qtr round and a half round to the edge of a flat styrene strip, and repeat on the other side. Drill 30 holes on each side, spaced so that they are offset with each side. The hub I was thinking of fixing an 11mm D metal washer to both ends of a brass tube and then also fixing on top of both the washers another 9mmD washer, thus giving the ridged shape it needs. 30 holes near the edge on both. The holes/spokes are then
        There are 4 sets, each consisting of 15 spokes (24 degr. interval).
        Set 1 and 4 go straight from the hub to the rim.
        Sets 2 and 3 go across from the hub to the rim. These do cross.

        Hope that makes sense. Pictures would be easier.

        Best Jon

        Like

  2. I used brass sheet and tube for my second build hub, and that went quite well. I can’t remember the thickness, but it wasn’t much.

    One thing though. If you are planning to display the model on the ground you will need to find a stiff filler for the tyres as they readily crush under the weight. Over time I think they would end up flat. I put some PVC edging I had to hand inside the tyres of the second model which worked well.

    Pics of a real Camel wheel if you are interested.

    Replica wheel.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thank you.
      Yes, not seen most of these images, the last one I have, which isn’t actually a repo, it was used on a build as a near likeness as they couldn’t get a wheel.

      I stupidly research how to make spoked wheels and ended up learning the differences. You can see just from the original one you posted that the spoke layout is very different, and some obvious differences are that the end of the hub that connect/faces the centre of the plane is not flush with the rim, it steps out. It’s known as a “dished wheel”. Also the spokes go to the rim, they do not form rows of 4 from outside to inner as in the last shot. And there is no “cross”, possibly 1, won’t know until I build. And no “interlace”. Take a look at this http://troubleshooters.com/bicycles/wheelbuilding/index.htm#_Theory_The_First_Two_or_Three_Spokes

      Pierre was a great help, and sent me loads of stuff. https://www.pjvision.nl/ Wade through “uncovered” pictures. Pierre does this for a living and knows the guys who built the plane that your wheel comes from. He has loads of drawings.

      I am going to have a bash at installing my seat and its belt(s) this evening. I’ve done no work on her for a couple of months thanks to the demands of the family. πŸ™‚

      Best
      Jonners

      Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: